It’s Getting Hot in Here: I tried Yam Khang, Thai Fire Massage

Northern Thailand is a unique and beautiful part of the country, unlike anywhere else in the Kingdom. I recently had the chance to visit Chiang Rai, a lush, green province in the country’s north. Chiang Rai is rich in colourful temples, ancient culture and tradition, and provides access to the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand all meet, via the Ruak and Mekong Rivers. It’s also home to Yam Khang, or Thai foot fire massage. Yes, you read that right. (I said Northern Thailand was unlike anywhere else!) It’s one of the most unusual things I’ve ever tried, and a must-do for the adventurous visiting the north of Thailand. 

Yam Khang massage is very rare to find, even in Thailand, and is only found in the northern areas of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. It’s a traditional massage style by the Lanna people of northern Thailand, and it involves feet, oils, fire, a plough shear, and I daresay a good amount of courage. 

What is Yam Khang?

Yam Khang is a traditional massage style of the Lanna, a collective term for the various ethnic groups of Northern Thailand, who have had roots to the area since ancient times. In Yam Khang massage, the masseuse prepares a charcoal fire, with a plough shear set atop the cauldron, along with various Thai herbs and spices, such as plai oils (similar to ginger) and sesame. The massage is done entirely with the feet of the masseuse- they dip their feet into one of the oils, then onto the shear in the fire, then use the soles of their heated feet to massage the pressure points of the body.

This massage style is thought to have healing powers, which come from the iron of the shear. The minerals of the iron are believed to cure the patient’s pains and injuries.

I visited Hong Home Phaya, a restaurant and Thai spa just outside Chiang Rai, to try this out for myself.

They do *what* with fire?

The human body is capable of doing amazing things, but I am not sure mine is up for repeatedly stepping on a bed of flames, in the name of massage- I may not have a future as a Thai masseuse. However, it must not cause pain, or much pain, as all the masseuses seemed at ease with their work. Perhaps stepping in the oil first creates a barrier of some sort, or they develop a tolerance for it over time. Either way, watching the proceedings is probably not for the faint of heart.

What is it like? Does it hurt?

Never one to turn down an opportunity to try something out of the ordinary, I volunteered to be the first of our group to try out the Yam Khang experience, via a leg massage. Laying on the mat, next to a literal cauldron on fire, I must admit I was terrified, and not that big on the idea of being part of any combination that involved my skin and flames. Too late to turn back now, I told myself, in a weak effort to brace myself for whatever was about to come my way…

It’s a weird position to be in, as I was laying face down on the mat, with the masseuse standing over me, next to the oils and cauldron. She dipped her feet in the oil, and I could hear the singe of the oil igniting as she touched her foot onto the shear, and then the massage began. Luckily I couldn’t see much, as I had left my baseball cap on (the American version of a security blanket, you could say), and I was face-down regardless. However, just hearing the bubbling of the oil told me that it was *definitely* too late to back down now.

As her foot touched my calf, I soon realised the bark was far worse than bite, as anticipation usually is. The feeling can really only be explained exactly as it is- that of a hot foot, covered in ash and oil, pressing into my muscles. It wasn’t burning, but was definitely hot, as one might feel in a hot-stone massage. Not really painful, just very hot. The process continued- a dip into the oil, a dip into the fire, and then the foot massage. Despite knowing exactly what was coming, each time I heard the sizzle of the oil, I couldn’t help but tense up- it’s hard to get used to the idea of Yam Khang. At the end, I was fairly covered in ash and oil, but the masseuses take great care to rinse it off and leave you spick-and-span. You’re then turned back into the world, revitalised, refreshed, and repaired…right?

Is it relaxing?

It’s hard to honestly say this was a completely relaxing experience, as one tends to think a massage ought to be. However, would I recommend it? Yes, you have to try this if you find yourself in Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai.

I can’t say for certain that the massage washed (or burnt) away all of my ailments, but the warmth from the fire created a nice sensation, despite the heat of the day, once/if you get used to it.

Adrenaline rush or the height of relaxation? You decide. Although I found it more of an adrenaline rush, others might find the entire experience completely enjoyable and serene.

Why try it?

Although Thai massage is well-loved and can be found all over the world, you aren’t likely to come across this particular style of Thai massage very easily. Yam Khang is an incredibly unique experience, and, I think it’s safe to say, something of a dying art. If you’re lucky enough to be exposed to the Lanna culture and Yam Khang, you must experience it, even if it feels completely out of your comfort zone. By visiting local spas, like Hong Home Phaya, your support is going directly to a locally owned business, and, importantly, helping to keep an ancient tradition and a special aspect of Lanna culture alive. Whether you love it or you decide it’s not for you, understanding and embracing local culture, arts, and traditions is one of the most magical parts of travel.

Yam Khang- an important part of Chiang Rai’s culture & traditions

One of my favourite aspects of Thailand’s north was the chance to interact with and learn more about the local culture, visit with local villages, and gain knowledge of the traditional arts and crafts still being produced in the region. Seeing the steps the Thai government has taken to support and preserve traditions is both heartwarming and vitally important, such as the OTOP initiative (One Tambon One Product; a tambon is a governmental area). OTOP allows local villages to continue to produce their traditional crafts, provides them with a platform for sale, and creates educational opportunities for visitors to learn more. Keep an eye on the blogs for more on this, as this is the first in a series on Chiang Rai and the north of Thailand.

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So there it is, the Yam Khang massage. Would you try it?

(Please note, the writer visited Thailand as a guest of Tourism Authority Thailand, but all opinions are her own.)