TSS Earnslaw steamship cruise- is it worth the expense?

What is the TSS Earnslaw?

All aboard Queenstown’s heritage steamship. Built in 1912, the TSS Earnslaw is only a year older than the Titanic and was first commissioned to transport people and animals, namely sheep, to and from the high country farms and stations in the Otago region.

After many years of service in various forms, it is now a popular tourist attraction in Queenstown, as well as – wait for it – the only commercial passenger-carrying coal-fired steamship left in the southern hemisphere. It offers multiple trips per day from Queenstown. Although my experience was slightly marred by crowds, overall, the Earnslaw is an awesome thing to do in Queenstown, especially if you’re into history.

As an aside, if you’re planning a road trip through NZ’s South Island, don’t miss Queenstown! It’s one of the coolest cities ever and a great base for a few days of exploring.

Is it worth the cost, and what’s so great about an old steamship? Read on- full steam ahead for the lowdown on the TSS Earnslaw. (And yes, I will try to insert ship puns whenever possible…)

Want to read more about New Zealand? Check out more NZ content here.

TSS Earnslaw History

The TSS Earnslaw steamship was originally built to transport livestock and passengers along the river to and from the high country stations, such as Walter Peak. It was easier in those days (and maybe even today) to travel via the lake rather than by land. She set off on her maiden voyage in 1912 and served until the late 1960s, when she received some upgrades to suit her new role in the tourism industry.

While researching this article, I found out that the Earnslaw also had some notable mentions in history. In 1990, the Earnslaw carried Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip, and, in 2008, it had a brush with fame, thanks to a small cameo in Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull.

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All aboard

I had booked for a morning cruise and was one of the first to board (what can I say, punctuality is both a blessing and a curse sometimes). After getting a coffee, selecting a comfy seat in the saloon, and relaxing while others boarded, I was lulled into a false sense of security that there would be plenty of room onboard.

I was wrong. After the ship seemed to be at capacity and was starting to get uncomfortable, I realised people were still boarding. By this point, I had finished my coffee and gotten up to walk around and came back to find there were no free seats anywhere. Heck, there was hardly any standing room anywhere.

I would love to see Real Journeys, who manage the Earnslaw, consider selling fewer tickets per trip. There were quite a few complaints on board about the crowd, and it does take away from the otherwise lovely ambiance of the ship. I normally don’t like to be negative on the blog, but in the interest of honesty, I’d say, be prepared for crowds on board if you’re planning on visiting during busy times of the year.

Where does the Earnslaw go?

The ship cruises back and forth from Walter Peak, a spectacular farm and sheep station, set on the banks of the river and the mountains. I’d read up on all the options before booking your trip, as you need to decide which activity you’d like to do on the farm. Options include a BBQ lunch, farm tours, and horseback riding. Ticket prices vary based on which activities you do on arrival at the farm. Prices range from about $70-$149 NZD per adult.

I selected the cruise and Walter Peak farm tour- it was a lot of fun and I can recommend this. Click here to book or learn more about the Farm Tour cruise or the BBQ lunch tour.

There’s also the option of cruising the Earnslaw for the experience, but not disembarking at the farm. Since the trip is already a bit expensive, you might as well pay a bit more and get to experience the farm. It’s really beautiful and is a great example of a working sheep station. Wool and sheep farming has been a huge part of the New Zealand economy since the British arrived in the 18th century, so a visit to a farm really plays a big part in understanding Kiwi history and culture.

Walter Peak Farm

As you cruise from Queenstown up to Walter Peak, take in the stunning views of the Remarkables, the town, and just soak up the beauty of it all. The South Island of New Zealand has got to be one of the most beautiful parts of the world. As we approached the station, we were lucky enough to see a huge herd of sheep (hundreds, if not thousands), being driven from one part of the station to another, over a mountain pass. From a distance, it almost looked like a ballet, with all of the animals moving up and down the mountains together, just a single entity moving in unison.

For me, the ship itself was interesting, but the star of the day was Walter Peak. There’s a lot to check out here, although I think my favourite had to be the shaggy highland cattle. I am sure the farm would be a hit with kids too, as there are lots of farm animals to pet and feed.

Meandering around the large farm was a breath of fresh air (literally and figuratively) after getting off the crowded ship, and it’s a real treat to see this gorgeous property.

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What to do onboard the TSS Earnslaw

The obvious answer of what to do onboard the TSS Earnslaw is to enjoy the views, but there’s also some neat history on board that’s worth checking out.

On the lowest level of the ship, I suppose the storage or steerage compartment, a small gallery of photos and images tell the history of the ship, a great way to learn a bit more about why and how it was built, along with some of its accomplishments over the years.

You can also visit the actual engine room of the ship, with gangways installed so passengers can walk above the steam room and look down on the inner workings of the ship. As you would expect, it was extremely hot and steamy in this part of the ship, not to mention potentially dangerous if you weren’t careful. I had never been inside an engine room before, which is probably true for most people, so it’s certainly a unique thing to see.

For safety reasons, I am not sure I would take small kids or anyone who isn’t too stable on their feet. But, ask the crew if you’re unsure if it’s for you or your party.

The saloon itself is also impressive for its period architecture, and there’s a nice cafe on board, offering coffees, drinks, and light bites.

There’s also a piano onboard, with most journeys offering a pianist and sing-alongs. CDs of the songs were also available for purchase. I felt a bit bad for the pianist, as she did a great job but I’m not sure the crowds were into it. Still, it’s a lovely and nostalgic touch that tied in perfectly with the ship’s historic status.

TSS Earnslaw- the verdict

Yes, I would recommend checking this out- however not in peak season or school/public holidays. I feel like they oversold tickets and the ship was extremely crowded on board. While I am sure this capacity was approved from a maritime safety perspective, from an ethics perspective, I think the company should reconsider how many tickets are sold per cruise. I even saw a family get off before we set off, as the crowds were too much for them. It’s disappointing to see this happen.

However, I was travelling in what must be one of the busiest times of the year- school holidays in Australia and New Zealand, and also China’s Golden Week.

Want to check prices for cruises on your travel dates? 

If you didn’t eat at Fergburger, did you even go to Queenstown?

 

Are there any other boat cruises to check out in Queenstown?

Queenstown, set on the spectacular Lake Wakatipu, has a few boat trips that are worth checking out. Here’s a quick rundown:

Million Dollar Cruise

To be honest, I only did this cruise as I was wandering aimlessly on my last afternoon in town, and near the marina, a woman was trying to sell tickets to passersby. It was reasonably priced at $39 NZD and she assured me the boat wasn’t crowded- after the chaos of the Earnslaw, I was sold.

The Million Dollar Cruise goes in a different direction down the river than the Earnslaw as well, so you can easily do both without repeating any of the views. It cruises down what’s known as the Frankton Arm of the river, taking in views of the Remarkables and some stunning, high-end waterfront homes.

This cruise was a relaxing way to see more of Queenstown, made even more enjoyable by the quirky boat captain, always stocked full of corny jokes and one-liners that reminded me of Disney’s Jungle Boat Cruise.

Looking for something else amazing to do on the South Island? Check out the glow worm caves of nearby Te Anau or go ziplining down the mountains of Queenstown.

 

Shotover jet boats

I’ve never actually done a Shotover jet boat, but these high-speed powerboats blast through the river and its narrow canyons, creating an adrenaline rush and you twist and turn all over the river. The jet boats are extremely popular in Queenstown, and you’re also likely to get soaked in the process- as Queenstown’s weather isn’t usually the best, the thought of getting soaked on a boat ride didn’t really appeal to me. However, most everyone seems to check out this experience while in town, so perhaps I am in the minority on this one!

Book your shotover jet adventure well in advance—they can book out quickly. 

Winston Churchill’s M.V. Yvalda

Moored in the lake just offshore, a curious and beguiling yacht lays in the harbour, looking like something from a bygone era. It had caught my eye a few times, but it wasn’t until my last day in town that I learned who once owned the boat- none other than Sir Winston Churchill.

I can’t find much detail on this, but according to YachtCharterGuide.com:

“M.V. Yvalda is a beautiful, 48 foot classic twin screw, ketch rigged motor launch, designed by GL Watson, and built in Scotland in 1936 by the renowned boat builders McGruer and Co.

She is a solid, wooden boat of teak and oak and powered by her original Gardner engines. She has spacious decks and wheelhouse, and a cosy comfortable saloon. Built for a Scottish gentleman, Yvalda was once owned by the British Royal Navy and used by Sir Winston Churchill during World War Two.”

It can be hired out for private charters, which would be one hell of a way to spend an afternoon!

Whether you’re after the heritage and history of the Earnslaw, the lightning-fast action of the Shotover jet boats, or something in between, I would recommend a cruise of some sort while in Queenstown. Lake Wakatipu, with its clear and sparkling alpine water, is part of the region’s beauty and seeing Queenstown by water is seriously spectacular.

Looking for somewhere to stay in Queenstown? There are plenty of gorgeous Airbnb stays, many with mountain views.