6 Words to Describe Amritsar, India

6 Words to Describe Amritsar

I recently had the chance to visit Amritsar, India, as a guest of Air Asia and Punjab Tourism. It was such a whirlwind experience and I’m still coming down from the excitement of such a unique place. Here’s the first in a series of blogs on Amritsar- six words to best describe what it’s like to experience Amritsar as a first-timer:

Color

If color is the new black, no one’s done this better than Amritsar.  A visit to any local clothing shop will instantly provide a splash of color, with saris, scarves, dresses, and accessories available in the brightest of colors. Shopping here is a manic experience- clothes are literally thrown down from the shop attic, and laid out in front of you, shop owners eager to nab a sale and showcase their wares.

Anything you don’t want is discarded, and bartering seems impossible to avoid- however, spare a thought for the shop workers constantly repackaging unwanted clothing sets back into their packaging. It’s a bit of an assault on the senses and slightly overwhelming, but an amazingly fun way to shop.

Amritsar has a strong textile industry, offering beautiful clothes and fabrics saturated in rich colors, and delicate handmade embroideries. Anything you wish to purchase can generally be tailored while you wait.

Side note: Yes, there is a lot of plastic involved while shopping in India. And, generally, it’s a big problem throughout the country. As a visitor, do as much as you can to reuse plastics, recycle, and bring  your own shopping bags- every little bit helps.

Sikh

Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Guru Ram Das, Amritsar is Sikh. An understanding of the Sikh culture, faith, and history is essential to understanding Amritsar. The golden (literally) crown of Amritsar is the Harmandir Sahib, known in English as the Golden Temple (for its pristine golden roof- as in, actually made of gold), and is the most holy gurdwara, or place of worship, for the Sikh faith. It’s home to the eternal Guru Granth Sahib, the sacred religious text of the Sikh faith. 

No visit to Amritsar would be complete without a visit to the Harmandir Sahib- start off with a visit to the Interpretation Centre, which offers videos and a great introduction to the temple and its meaning. If you can, visit Harmandir Sahib both in day and night, as the temple is so different each time of day.  

Equality, acceptance, and community are strong tenants of the Sikh faith, demonstrated most clearly at the temple’s langar. The spirit of langar (which translates to community kitchen), is a Sikh tradition of offering a hot meal to anyone in need, regardless of background, religion, or status. The practice began to uphold the principle of equality, and to bring people from all castes together-a pretty beautiful concept and something we could use more of in the world today. 

 

Partition

The Partition of British India in 1947 is not merely a historical event- it is something that still impacts the region  today. The partition separated Pakistan and India into two separate nations once the British Raj was ended. The border that separated the new countries was known as the Radcliffe line, and was drawn up based (mainly) on religious divide. The province of Punjab, where Amritsar resides, as well as Bengal and Assam provinces were heavily impacted by the divide.

The impact of the Partition was astronomical, and created a human refugee crisis, massive violence, and literally separated families, friends, and communities overnight, on a scale that had never been seen. Over one million Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims were killed or displaced from their homelands during the migration, and casualties are estimated from 200,000 to 2,000,000, exact numbers unfortunately not known. The British administration of the partition was not managed well, and neither country’s government had the resources to effectively manage.

Amritsar, only about 25 kilometers from the border with Pakistan, very strongly felt the impact of the partition. A visit to the city’s new Partition Museum, opened in 2017, is the best way to learn about the impact of the partition, and is also the world’s only partition museum. The museum has gone to great lengths to record stories from survivors, and listening to them is a harrowing reminder of the painful residual impact of colonialism. Set in Amritsar’s stunning Town Hall building, this is a great first stop on any trip to the area.

Community pride

There is so much pride in Amritsar, for the city, for the Sikh faith and history, and for India itself. Visit the Wagah Border Ceremony for a unique (as in, I can’t think of anywhere else in the world where you can see something like this) insight into India’s patriotism. This nightly border ceremony, in which Pakistani and Indian forces demonstrate their military prowess (and high-kick abilities), before jointly lowering their flags, to symbolise unity and the rivalries between both nations.

(Below: The Wagah Border Ceremony)

It’s a bit like a football game, with vendors selling ice cream, Indian flags face-painted across the faces of happy kids, and stadium-style seating. India has a fierce nationalism, and I found the enthusiasm to be contagious, despite having no ‘horse in the race’, so to speak. There are two separate stadiums, built literally next to the border between the countries. (The Pakistani stadium can be seen in the top left photo.)

It’s also really surreal to be standing next to Pakistan, watching their huge flag waving in the breeze, just on the other side of a (tall) fence.

Movement

Nothing seems to stand still in Amritsar. Tuktuks, rickshaws, cars, and bicycles all share the road, moving in a constant state of what seems like a chaotic ballet on every road, alley, or path, accompanied by blaring horns, conversations on the back of motorbikes, or children playing.

If you can find a moment of calm, appreciate it. Forget New York- Amritsar is the city that never sleeps.

Amritsar has also taken proactive steps to increase tourism opportunities in the region- in addition to a range of new hotels, the Interpretation Center, War Memorial, Partition Museum, and the Gobindgarh Fort have all opened within the past 2-3 years, which is really impressive and makes now a great time to explore the region.

Tradition

The Sikh tradition and history is seen everywhere in Amritsar- the architecture, the men in their elegantly tied turbans, and the wholesome vegetarian food found throughout the city. Although not obligatory, most Sikhs choose to live by a vegetarian diet- one of the world’s only vegetarian McDonalds can also be found in Amritsar (sadly, I didn’t get time to try it), and incredible wholesome, delicious, and veggie meals can be found in the dhabas, or local restaurants, found throughout the city.

There are many opportunities to learn more about Sikh history and warriors of the past-the newly opened Gobindgarh Fort and the Punjab State War Heroes’ Memorial and Museum, a first of its kind in India. (Hints- check out the 7D movies at both locations, and also time your visit to the fort late in the afternoon so you can stay for the evening light show. And yes, I said 7D- India’s taken it to the next level.)

There is so much richness in Amritsar- rich colours, knowledge, history, and a spirit of community, it’s a unique part of India that has only recently started to open up to international tourism, although the Punjab region has been revered by locals for centuries.

How to get there

If you’re hoping to visit, Air Asia has just started flying from Australia to Amritsar, via a brief layover in Kuala Lumpur, making India easily accessible from Sydney. They have amazingly low introductory fares, so if you’re planning to go backpacking in India, check out Air Asia as a really affordable way to get there, and kick off your trip with a stay in Amritsar. 

Have you ever been to Amritsar, or to other parts of India? Would love to hear your thoughts below!

Note: The writer visited Amritsar as a guest of Air Asia and Punjab Tourism, but all opinions are her own.